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 The
bodice of a gown has always provided one of the most spectacular
settings for displaying imposing jewelry. For a lady, getting
dressed in the mid 1700’s was an adventure. She had to think
ahead and usually needed the help of a servant. The lady would
prepare herself for being dressed by having her hair finished,
her shift (short day/night dress), cap, earrings, stockings,
garters and shoes on, in preparation for the stays being laced
around her. This, she could not do herself as they usually laced
up the back. Stays were made from multiple layers of fabric that
were quilted together leaving vertical channels. The channels
held either strips of chair cane or baleen for support. Once
laced around the body, they offered the smooth, conical body
shape, popular of the time.
See
additional color palette...
For a lot of
gowns, the next layer would have been the addition of panniers.
Panniers were tied around the waist and changed the width of
the wearer’s hips. These shaped cages were made from layers
of fabric and chair cane, with musket balls added to the frame
for weight. Then came a series of petticoats with the last petticoat
being the most decorative. Tied around the waist, their number
would depend on how wealthy you were. Then a stomacher was pinned
over the top of the stays for beauty and to hide the stays. This
item was usually highly decorated with embroidery, pearls and
trims. A stomacher was a long triangular shaped piece, stiffened
with multiple layers of fabric. The gowns bodice would then be
placed on the lady, pulled really tight around the body and laced,
over the top or underneath the stomacher then pinned or sewn
into place.
If the lady was
dressed appropriately for a formal occasion, her servant would
then pin or sew one or more bodice ornaments to the front of
her stomacher. These elaborate bodice ornaments were large, stone-encrusted
pieces that were made of gold. Shaped to cover the upper edge
of the stomacher, most surviving examples are works of art. The
ornaments were usually made of open filigree work masterfully
done in gold, set with diamonds, precious and semi-precious stones.
The lady was just about ready, with finishing touches depending
on fashion. But at this point she was resplendent!
The fabulous
bodice ornaments that have survived from the 18th century inspired
Milady’s Brooch & Pendant Ornament. A trillion shaped
stone is set within Peyote Stitch then layer upon layer of Peyote
Stitch and embellishing techniques make channels, or paths of
beadwork, that hold small pearls and stones set in fine metal
settings. The edges are finished with a stylized foliage design
representing filigree work. A pearl encrusted dangle adds movement
to the bottom of the ornament. Lavishly set, extremely rich in
ornament, this piece can be a brooch or a pendant. If the wearer
chooses the pendant style, then we will add a shaped bail and
slide the pendant over a simple Peyote Stitch tube with a toggle
and loop closure for a spectacular finish! For those that would
prefer a brooch, we will sew a high quality pin-back to the back
of the beadwork so that you can wear this ornament in 18th century
style.
Skill level: Intermediate to advanced
This is a 2-day
workshop.
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